We got off to a slow start b/c we didn’t have a plan. Rudy worked on his journal and we checked email,
etc. We finally set off around
11:00. Mom couldn’t walk and we didn’t
want to cab so we split up. We rode the
metro to Circus Maximus and walked to Tiber Island and met Mom and Dad
there. The Circus was the largest
entertainment complex ever built and held several hundred thousand people. After we met mom and dad we wandered around the Trastavere
and got lunch at a family restaurant.
Angelo, the old owner who spoke no English, took a particular interest
in Rudy and showed him how to eat spaghetti and wanted him to pay the
bill. It was pretty funny. We walked to a pyramid, somebody’s tomb, then metroed
back. Stopped for gelato, then back to
the hotel for siesta. -James
We had talked about trying to do a day trip on our last day in Rome - Assisi, Bracciano, Orvieto - but we decided that might be pushing a little too much. The concierge at the hotel recommended the Trastavere as a pleasant neighborhood to stroll, so that became the plan!
Circus Maximus:
The cars in Trastavere weren't quite up to snuff with those in Monaco!
Today we got off to a
slower start. We were lounging around in
the lobby for a while. I worked on my
journal. Then we went to the metro and
got on then we got off and walked to the Circus Maximus then we walked over the
Tiber on a bridge to the Trestavere.
Then we got lunch at the best restaurant ever and I got taught how to
eat spaghetti in Italy. Then we got
gelato. -Rudy
Relaxing lunch at Trattoria Da Paolo...what James didn't tell you in his journal was about his inadvertent dessert order. Angelo spoke very little English, but James and I were able to understand most of what he was trying to tell us. For example, I ordered his recommended the figs and prosciutto for lunch. James was starting to get a little cocky with his language skills. Angelo came around and asked if we wanted tiramisu. James thought he said no and asked for the check. After Angelo left, we all told James that he'd just ordered us dessert. "No, no! I told him no dessert and he asked if we wanted one check or two, so I said one." He wouldn't believe us that he'd actually just ordered not two, but only one, tiramisu. We all got a good laugh when Angelo came out a few minutes later with a bowl of tiramisu! Granted, I don't love tiramisu but this stuff was delicious, so it was a good mistake to make!
Brady had looked at the map and really wanted to see a gate from the ancient Roman wall that was illustrated on the map. We hiked way down to it...and it was rather unimpressive. A fragment of the wall, with cars driving through it. Granted - our expectations of antiquity were pretty high by now too, but Brady was MAD!
We walked a little further, and this gate appeased him somewhat!
Pyramid of Cestius, built as a tomb for Gaius Cestius around 18 BC. One thing we read said that the proportions mimic those of the Egyptian pyramids; we all thought it looked way "pointier" than images we've seen of the Egyptian structures. Later, I read that it may have been modeled after Nubian pyramids, which Cestius would have seen on a military campaign.
We took the metro back and got off at the train station (about 3 blocks from the hotel), rather than going through the hassle of switching trains to get to the metro stop right across from the hotel. We tried to get gelato, but the nasty employee would only let us have one taste for the WHOLE FAMILY! Rudy was unimpressed with his taste and the guy was rude, so we moved on. Kathy and Tony already had their gelato, so they headed back to the hotel. Once we had ours, I wanted to take a slightly different route to walk past this building I kept seeing at the end of the street. It was a worthy excursion!
The Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore was built in the early 5th century. We learned later that it has a unique status, in that it is in Italy and not the territory of the Vatican. However, the Holy See owns the basilica and Italy must "concede to it the immunity granted by International Law to the headquarters of the diplomatic agents of foreign states." The columns in the nave are likely repurposed from an ancient building; some are marble and some are granite. The gold on the ceiling is said to have been brought back by Christopher Columbus and then presented by Ferdinand and Isabella to the Spanish pope. Fascinating
We enjoyed some downtime back at the hotel during the hottest part of the day. The boys watched some soccer and caught up on some journaling; James and I got some packing done for our flight home. As evening approached, we decided it was time again to enjoy Rome at night. The concierge had recommended Tempio di Micenate for dinner. Since all of the reviews we read seemed to indicate that everything was about a 3.5 star, we decided this would be perfectly acceptable. It was - it was a lovely evening and we enjoyed splitting our pasta and pizzas. We had a leisurely dinner, chatting about a variety of things and enjoying just being together and being on vacation.
With a little bit of fuel in our bellies, we now had the energy for one evening stroll. We wandered our way over to the Colosseum. The kids even had the energy for some windsprints and footraces on the way!
Perfection.
This time, we kept walking down the street instead of heading back.
The Roman Forum, lit up at night.
Looking across the street at the Imperial Forum:
The boys were quite taken with this spray paint artist, and came home with two of their own masterpieces:
We kept going down to the "typewriter building." It's not lit from the back, so I made the kids look down the street until we were front and center before they could turn and see it all lit up. I love the moon in the background.
From there, we strolled over to Trajan's Column and then up through the Imperial Forum.
10.5 miles today and not a single complaint from the boys!
James and I both loved Rome this visit. We're not sure what was different...we enjoyed it last time, but it felt more comfortable, more doable this time around. Definitely a good way to end the vacation!
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